Homemade Goggie Treat ob teh Week: Cheese & Bacon Cookies!
Ingredients:
3/4 cup Flour
1/2 teaspoon Baking Soda
1/2 teaspoon Salt
2/3 cup Butter
2/3 cup Brown Sugar
1 Egg
1 teaspoon Vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups oatmeal
1 cup Cheddar Cheese — shredded
1/2 cup Wheat Germ
1/2 pound Bacon, Turkey Bacon or bacon bits
3/4 cup Flour
1/2 teaspoon Baking Soda
1/2 teaspoon Salt
2/3 cup Butter
2/3 cup Brown Sugar
1 Egg
1 teaspoon Vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups oatmeal
1 cup Cheddar Cheese — shredded
1/2 cup Wheat Germ
1/2 pound Bacon, Turkey Bacon or bacon bits
Directions:
1. Combine flour, soda and salt; mix well and set aside.
2. Cream butter and sugar, beat in egg and vanilla. Add flour mix mixing well.
3. Stir in oats, cheese, wheat germ and bacon.
4. Drop by rounded tablespoon onto ungreased baking sheets.
5. Bake at 350 degrees for 16 minutes.
6. Cool and enjoy.
10 Tips for Bringing Cats & Dogs Together
By Kathy Blumenstock, Animal Planet
The war between cats and dogs is a topic of debate from Hollywood to hometowns. Multiple-pet owners have examples of cats that buddy up to their canine companions, of dogs chasing cats off their turf, or of the two species respectfully ignoring each other. The two don’t have to automatically “fight like cats and dogs.” Their ability to get along is shaped by their individual experiences with the other species accumulated before they are paired. Their communication styles differ too which can lead to confusion: A dog wags his tail to show happiness and eagerness to play; a cat lashes her tail to indicate displeasure or anger. You can help them to share a home by keeping each pet’s best interests and instincts in mind. Here are 10 tips.
10. Promote Puppy Love and Kitten Closeness
Because puppies and kittens have had no (bad) experiences with each other, they will get along more quickly than older pets. So it makes sense, if you are thinking of having one of each, to get them as youngsters. Growing up together, they will form a bond. However, a puppy’s play may still be a bit rough for a fragile kitten that will always be tinier than her canine mate. Always supervise their interactions, even if they are friendly: A kitten may signal that she’s finished playing but the energetic puppy could still be eager to go, and his activity may confuse her. Teach the puppy to play by chasing a toy, never his smaller feline buddy; this will ensure he grows up respecting, not pursuing, smaller animals.
9. Make the Right Match
A cat who is curious about but not fearful of dogs, and a dog who has at least a nodding acquaintance with felines are the ideal pairing. Whichever pet you’re adopting, a rescue organization or animal shelter will gladly work with you to help select the best candidate, based on the history and personality of the animal you’re choosing and the one at home.
A stray or feral cat that needs to be socialized and acclimated to indoor living can be a hazard to a resident dog, because she is accustomed to seeing dogs as the enemy, animals to be fought rather than befriended. And some dog breeds, such as terriers, hounds and herding dogs, shouldn’t live with cats. Their instincts, which drive them to catch, shake and kill prey, will endanger felines which they see as something to chase.
8. Slow That Intro
Cats are both territorial and not fond of change, so a supervised, gradual awareness of another pet is the best method for keeping the peace. Patience is a must, because the introduction phase could take anywhere from a few days to several weeks, or longer in some cases. Stick to the animals’ preferred pace, and don’t force them to be together. Speak in soft, conversational tones to both animals, and spend quality time with each in their separate spaces, not neglecting the resident pet to give the new one extra attention. Letting each animal see the other for brief periods in a neutral room and gradually increasing the exposure, will assure them that there’s room for more than one pet.
7. Meet Your (Restrained) Roomie
Keep your dog’s leash on during early meetings with your cat, so that if he becomes aggressive, even in play, you can limit his movements and calmly but firmly discipline him. If he’s trained, command him to take the “down-stay” position. Keep the cat out of the dog’s biting range, and allow her to escape the dog’s attention if she wants to (but not flee throughout your home!) You can also have the animals meet from opposite sides of a pet gate at first, but don’t allow them to touch noses or otherwise get too close until each is more accustomed to the sight of the other. Some pet owners place the cat or small dog in a carrier or crate, and let the other pet sniff and circle the confined animal. This depends largely on the disposition of the confined pet. He or she may be just fine with a stranger hovering outside, or feel trapped as the other pet investigates his or her arrival.
6. Offer a Safe Haven
The cat, whether a new arrival or current resident, should have a separate refuge of her own for at least a few days or a week, preferably in a room with a door or behind a pet gate. This area should be off-limits to the dog. Place a litter box, food and water, scratching post, toys and bed in this room. Your cat will feel more secure knowing she can get away from the unfamiliar experience of getting to know a dog. Don’t allow your canine to linger outside the room, as his presence will stress the cat and defeat the purpose of the separate space.
5. Mix Scents with Sensibility
Animals get to know one another through scent, not face-to-face meetings. Even before they see each other, you can help both pets become familiar with each other’s scent. Gently rub a T-shirt, sock, towel or washcloth over the dog, and place it near the cat’s food dish or bed. After a few days, rub the item with the dog’s scent over the cat, mingling their scents. Reverse the procedure for your dog. By offering both access to each other’s scents, you’ll make their initial meeting less stressful, as each pet will know that this other critter is not a total stranger.
4. Provide Litter Privacy, Please
Your cat’s litter box should always be in a spot where the dog cannot get at it. Invasion of her litter box will stress her out. If the dog interferes with the cat while she is doing her business, she may abandon the box and soil elsewhere in your home, where she feels less threatened.
Dogs have a disgusting habit of — ewww alert here — snacking on the contents of a cat’s litter box which they actually find very tasty (a very good reason never to kiss your dog or let him lick your face). The simplest solution to stopping this is to place the litter box where the cat can access it but the dog can’t, such as inside a space too small for the dog to enter. Or consider a covered litter box that gives the cat privacy but prevents the dog from getting in. Because cats can navigate in darkness while dogs can’t, placing the litter box in a darkened room may also work.
3. Keep Cat Claws in Trim
If the cat feels threatened or stressed, she may react and injure the dog with her primary weapon: her claws. Therefore, those claws should be trimmed to ensure that a casual swipe of the paw — an instinctive, harmless move if her claws are sheathed — won’t be disastrous for your dog, especially during their early meetings.
Declawing your cat is not a good idea. She will feel, and be, defenseless around a dog, not to mention this is a painful procedure. If you feel that even trimmed claws are not safe enough, consider nail caps, which coat the cat’s claws with blunt endings, but keep the claws intact. These vinyl coverings, attached with a nontoxic adhesive, last about four to six weeks, while the cat’s claws grow out, and do not interfere with her usual extension and retraction of her claws.
2. Offer Separate Dining Spots
Each pet should be able to eat undisturbed by the other, so set up individual feeding stations. You may want to serve the cat’s meals on an elevated surface such as a countertop or windowsill to prevent the dog from wolfing down her food as well as his own. In addition to allowing each pet to dine in peace, “separate tables” ensure that each will eat his or her own food. Cat and dog food are not nutritionally interchangeable. While most cats have zero interest in Fido’s menu, dogs find the higher protein and fat content of cat food very appetizing. Regular cat food consumption can result in a nutritional imbalance and weight gain for dogs.
1. Hope for BFFs, But Settle for Nodding Acquaintances
You may wish for the movie version of inseparable pals, but doggy devotion and kitty cordiality cannot be pushed — and animals won’t fake affection. Each brings his or her own quirks, habits and likes to the relationship. But by ensuring that your dog is well-trained in obedience, and giving the cat a high-up perch, such as a cat tree, you can create an atmosphere where friendship can blossom. The two may eventually accept one another, with minimal interaction but no animosity, or they may develop a genuine fondness for each other. If they’re both snuggling and shedding together on your bedspread, you’ll know they’ve teamed up to rule your home and heart.
How to Help a Stray Dog
By Morieka Johnson, MNN.com, May 28, 2011, 12:23 a.m. EDT
-- I don't remember where I was going when that stray dog weaved across a busy street near my home. But I do remember turning the car around to rescue the white pup with large tan spots that looked more like stains, except for one heart-shaped patch on her side.
As cars sped past, I stood at the side of the road and waited for her to get comfortable around me. Eventually, she approached my extended hand and I was able to coax her into my car.
I named the dog Honey and worked with a local rescue group called Atlanta Animal Rescue Friends (AARF) to find the sweet pooch a forever home.
Not every encounter leads to a happy ending. But with care, you can help a stray dog find its forever home.
Exercise caution: You don't know the dog's history, so it's important to avoid getting bitten. That means remaining cautious as you approach the dog. If it has been roaming for a while, or lived chained outside, the dog may be overly skittish around humans.
"If it's afraid, a dog's first instinct is to run and the safest thing is to let it go," says Mike Upshaw, a Georgia police officer who also trains dogs. "If the dog's hackles are raised and its tail is up, turn around and walk away."
He advises waiting for the dog to grow more comfortable around you, which may take some time. If you fear that the dog may be in danger of being hit by a car, place a call to your local animal control and provide a description of the dog, the area where you saw it and the location in which it was heading.
If a stray dog becomes a regular sight in your neighborhood, try to build a relationship over time. Upshaw suggests keeping a few dog treats in your pocket so that the treats have your scent. Leave them in that area each time you pass it, and hopefully the dog will grow more comfortable with you.
When the opportunity arises, stand a safe distance from the dog and allow it to approach you. Extend your hand, letting the dog sniff you. If it tolerates petting, proceed with caution and move slowly.Start the search: When I found Honey, our first stop was the neighborhood pet store, where I asked for help spreading the word about her. They kindly offered a leash so that I could safely transport her to my house. (Unlike my rambunctious dog Lulu, who hates car rides, Honey settled in and didn't make a peep. If anything, she seemed curious about the next leg of her journey.) You should also visit your nearby animal shelter to drop off fliers featuring the dog's photo, a general description and contact information.
Limit interaction with your pets: Until you have a better understanding of the dog's health and temperament, it's best to limit interaction with your pets. Honey's first destination at my home was the tub, where she got a good long bath. Fleas dotted her white fur like pepper in a saltshaker.
After the bath, we took a walk and I snapped a few photographs to post online. It took a few days before she got to meet my dog, Lulu. Upshaw says that your pets may take issue with others attempting to join their pack. During the first meeting, keep dogs leashed and limit interaction to sniffing until they become comfortable together.
"Even with dogs from the same litter, skirmishes will happen," he warns.Schedule a checkup: Since your new houseguest will be sticking around for a while, it's best to schedule a checkup. Your veterinarian can provide clues about the dog's age and breed. The vet also can check for the presence of a microchip, which could ensure a happy reunion.
If your vet is closed for the day, see if a 24-hour emergency veterinary clinic is willing to quickly scan the dog for a chip. Also, those chips are worthless without up-to-date information on file.
Pet owners: Make sure you have submitted your most recent contact information to the chip company. Your vet can provide info on how to upload new information.
As for your stray, many vets offer discounted services. Consider getting a rabies vaccination, too. If you want to get it spayed or neutered, there are low-cost options available. Check the ASPCA website for programs that offer free or discounted programs in your area.
Once you get a clean bill of health, it is OK to gradually introduce the new animal to your pets. Kids should never be left unattended around animals, especially when you don't know the pet's history. Use extreme caution when allowing children to interact with the stray dog.
Start spreading the news: It can take time for strays to reunite with their owners, if it happens at all. Start building buzz about your new houseguest by posting fliers in the general vicinity of where you found your stray, as well as pet-friendly locations such as nearby dog parks, pet stores and veterinary clinics.
Sites like Petfinder.com allow you to post a free classified ad that lasts 180 days announcing your found pet. If there is no response after a few weeks, you may need to secure a forever home for the dog.
Connect with a rescue group: Most county animal control facilities are packed with pets in need of homes, and they are reluctant to take in a stray. If you are willing to foster the dog for a while, a local rescue group may be the best way to help find a forever home.
Rescue groups are like pet PR firms, focused on finding the perfect love connection between pets and people. Animal shelters happily work with rescue groups because it relieves overcrowding. In exchange, rescue groups set up adoption fairs and actively seek pet lovers to adopt.Your stray is already at an advantage because you can provide valuable information to prospective owners about its personality, age and demeanor around other people and pets. All of these details can help this animal find a home more quickly.
Under Lulu's guidance, Honey also learned a few tricks such as how to pour on the charm during rescue fairs. The photo of Honey that I took after her first bath was the one that sealed the deal for her future owner.
Thanks to that white dog with a heart-shaped patch on her side, I now travel everywhere with a leash, bottled water and a few dog treats in my car ... just in case life gets in the way. I encourage you to do the same. The next leg of your journey will never be the same.
© Copyright 2010 Mother Nature Network
As cars sped past, I stood at the side of the road and waited for her to get comfortable around me. Eventually, she approached my extended hand and I was able to coax her into my car.
I named the dog Honey and worked with a local rescue group called Atlanta Animal Rescue Friends (AARF) to find the sweet pooch a forever home.
Not every encounter leads to a happy ending. But with care, you can help a stray dog find its forever home.
Exercise caution: You don't know the dog's history, so it's important to avoid getting bitten. That means remaining cautious as you approach the dog. If it has been roaming for a while, or lived chained outside, the dog may be overly skittish around humans.
"If it's afraid, a dog's first instinct is to run and the safest thing is to let it go," says Mike Upshaw, a Georgia police officer who also trains dogs. "If the dog's hackles are raised and its tail is up, turn around and walk away."
He advises waiting for the dog to grow more comfortable around you, which may take some time. If you fear that the dog may be in danger of being hit by a car, place a call to your local animal control and provide a description of the dog, the area where you saw it and the location in which it was heading.
If a stray dog becomes a regular sight in your neighborhood, try to build a relationship over time. Upshaw suggests keeping a few dog treats in your pocket so that the treats have your scent. Leave them in that area each time you pass it, and hopefully the dog will grow more comfortable with you.
When the opportunity arises, stand a safe distance from the dog and allow it to approach you. Extend your hand, letting the dog sniff you. If it tolerates petting, proceed with caution and move slowly.Start the search: When I found Honey, our first stop was the neighborhood pet store, where I asked for help spreading the word about her. They kindly offered a leash so that I could safely transport her to my house. (Unlike my rambunctious dog Lulu, who hates car rides, Honey settled in and didn't make a peep. If anything, she seemed curious about the next leg of her journey.) You should also visit your nearby animal shelter to drop off fliers featuring the dog's photo, a general description and contact information.
Limit interaction with your pets: Until you have a better understanding of the dog's health and temperament, it's best to limit interaction with your pets. Honey's first destination at my home was the tub, where she got a good long bath. Fleas dotted her white fur like pepper in a saltshaker.
After the bath, we took a walk and I snapped a few photographs to post online. It took a few days before she got to meet my dog, Lulu. Upshaw says that your pets may take issue with others attempting to join their pack. During the first meeting, keep dogs leashed and limit interaction to sniffing until they become comfortable together.
"Even with dogs from the same litter, skirmishes will happen," he warns.Schedule a checkup: Since your new houseguest will be sticking around for a while, it's best to schedule a checkup. Your veterinarian can provide clues about the dog's age and breed. The vet also can check for the presence of a microchip, which could ensure a happy reunion.
If your vet is closed for the day, see if a 24-hour emergency veterinary clinic is willing to quickly scan the dog for a chip. Also, those chips are worthless without up-to-date information on file.
Pet owners: Make sure you have submitted your most recent contact information to the chip company. Your vet can provide info on how to upload new information.
As for your stray, many vets offer discounted services. Consider getting a rabies vaccination, too. If you want to get it spayed or neutered, there are low-cost options available. Check the ASPCA website for programs that offer free or discounted programs in your area.
Once you get a clean bill of health, it is OK to gradually introduce the new animal to your pets. Kids should never be left unattended around animals, especially when you don't know the pet's history. Use extreme caution when allowing children to interact with the stray dog.
Start spreading the news: It can take time for strays to reunite with their owners, if it happens at all. Start building buzz about your new houseguest by posting fliers in the general vicinity of where you found your stray, as well as pet-friendly locations such as nearby dog parks, pet stores and veterinary clinics.
Sites like Petfinder.com allow you to post a free classified ad that lasts 180 days announcing your found pet. If there is no response after a few weeks, you may need to secure a forever home for the dog.
Connect with a rescue group: Most county animal control facilities are packed with pets in need of homes, and they are reluctant to take in a stray. If you are willing to foster the dog for a while, a local rescue group may be the best way to help find a forever home.
Rescue groups are like pet PR firms, focused on finding the perfect love connection between pets and people. Animal shelters happily work with rescue groups because it relieves overcrowding. In exchange, rescue groups set up adoption fairs and actively seek pet lovers to adopt.Your stray is already at an advantage because you can provide valuable information to prospective owners about its personality, age and demeanor around other people and pets. All of these details can help this animal find a home more quickly.
Under Lulu's guidance, Honey also learned a few tricks such as how to pour on the charm during rescue fairs. The photo of Honey that I took after her first bath was the one that sealed the deal for her future owner.
Thanks to that white dog with a heart-shaped patch on her side, I now travel everywhere with a leash, bottled water and a few dog treats in my car ... just in case life gets in the way. I encourage you to do the same. The next leg of your journey will never be the same.
© Copyright 2010 Mother Nature Network
Let Your Dog's Nose Do Some Work
from: PetFoodDirect.com, 189 Main Street, Harleysville, PA 19438
May 28, 2011
Your dog's sense of smell is his or her strongest sense and what he or she uses more than sight or hearing to explore the world. A dog has more than 220 million olfactory receptors in his or her nose compared to the mere 5 million in a human nose. It's estimated that one third of the dog's brain is dedicated to scent.
A dog's sense of smell is present from birth and while still blind, puppies quickly learn the scent of their mother and eventually, the specific smell of a preferred treat.Like other animals, dogs have an additional sensory organ called the Jacobson's organ, located in the nasal cavity and upper part of the dog's mouth. This specialized organ picks up pheromones that provide sexual information for breeding as well as other biological signals that bear no detectable odors.
With such a keen sense of smell, dogs have been employed to use this highly developed ability to aid in search and rescue, finding cadavers, detecting firearms, explosives and drugs, and even detecting certain tumors in human patients.Even though dogs have this amazing ability, most of us have never considered using a dog's sense of smell as a form of exercise or stimulation. But, there's actually a new form of canine sport called Fun Nose Work in which you can participate and even compete with your dog. Dogs are taught to locate different scents which are hidden in boxes and other containers. This sport is not available everywhere, but my sources tell me classes are forming around the country at a rapid rate. To read more about this fun sport, you can check out the NACSW (National Association of Canine Scent Work) website.
The nice thing about nose work is that it's mentally stimulating for the dog but isn't as physically demanding for dog or owner. Older dogs that may not have the stamina for agility or other strenuous activities can participate in nose work. Allowing dogs to use scent has had remarkable results in building confidence in shy or anxious dogs.There are scent games you can set up at home that will engage your dog and show him or her to utilize that powerful sense of smell.
A dog's sense of smell is present from birth and while still blind, puppies quickly learn the scent of their mother and eventually, the specific smell of a preferred treat.Like other animals, dogs have an additional sensory organ called the Jacobson's organ, located in the nasal cavity and upper part of the dog's mouth. This specialized organ picks up pheromones that provide sexual information for breeding as well as other biological signals that bear no detectable odors.
With such a keen sense of smell, dogs have been employed to use this highly developed ability to aid in search and rescue, finding cadavers, detecting firearms, explosives and drugs, and even detecting certain tumors in human patients.Even though dogs have this amazing ability, most of us have never considered using a dog's sense of smell as a form of exercise or stimulation. But, there's actually a new form of canine sport called Fun Nose Work in which you can participate and even compete with your dog. Dogs are taught to locate different scents which are hidden in boxes and other containers. This sport is not available everywhere, but my sources tell me classes are forming around the country at a rapid rate. To read more about this fun sport, you can check out the NACSW (National Association of Canine Scent Work) website.
The nice thing about nose work is that it's mentally stimulating for the dog but isn't as physically demanding for dog or owner. Older dogs that may not have the stamina for agility or other strenuous activities can participate in nose work. Allowing dogs to use scent has had remarkable results in building confidence in shy or anxious dogs.There are scent games you can set up at home that will engage your dog and show him or her to utilize that powerful sense of smell.
- Which Hand
- Oops...I Dropped Something
- Hide-and-Seek
This is a basic, scent game in which you use either a food rewardor toy hidden in one of your hands. Present both closed hands to your dog and ask “which one?” You can encourage your dog to bump your hand with his or her nose, or a more advanced move involves the dog touching the correct hand with his or her paw before you reveal the hidden goodie. If he or she picks the wrong hand, show your dog where the hidden treat really was but don't offer a reward until the dog offers the correct answer.
This game will allow your dog to do something he or she will love…help you find something you've dropped. While walking with your dog, casually drop an object you were holding or hiding in your pocket. Don't acknowledge the item until you've walked about 10 steps further, then stop and put on a big act; pat your pockets, look around, and say “Where is it? Can you FIND IT?” Walk back to where you dropped the object and encourage your dog to sniff it out. The object can be anything made of any material but bear in mind, some objects may not hold a scent as well as other, more porous surfaces. When your dog does locate the “missing item,” praise him or her for helping you.
You can increase the difficulty of this game by throwing the object off the path a bit to increase the area the dog must search. Or, increase the amount of time and distance from where and when you dropped the item before you request your dog's assistance. You can even try dropping multiple objects of different materials, to further increase the difficulty.
Use a favorite toy or something new that piques your dog's interest. Engage your dog in playing with the object for a few minutes, making sure to coat it sufficiently in your scent, then while holding the dog, throw the object a short distance into tall grass to conceal the object's location. Allow the dog to see the object fall and hit the ground but the ground cover should be deep enough to disguise it from plain view. Wait a few seconds then tell your dog to “Find it!”
May 6, 2011TELEVISION REVIEW
‘MY CAT FROM HELL’ And You Used to Think Hairballs Were Bad
By NEIL GENZLINGER
What is the shortest measurable amount of time? You’d think the answer would involve advanced physics, something to do with some invisible force and nanoseconds. But no. Scientists now agree that the shortest measurable amount of time is the micro-instant between when a person first acquires a cat and when that person feels the need to use the phrase “bad kitty.”
The list of cat misbehaviors — scratching, biting, yowling, spraying, furniture wrecking, drapery shredding, hairball disgorging — is so long that it’s amazing that the animals can find time to get the 20 hours of sleep they seem to need per day. Most cats, though, know how to balance their evil tendencies with general adorableness, so that their owners are too busy reaching for the video camera to notice the claw marks on their upholstery and the blood on their arms.
That’s most cats. But the beasts in “My Cat From Hell,” a series that begins on Saturday on Animal Planet, are an entirely different story. These cats are the Regan MacNeils of the feline world: hissing, clawing, cursing, eyes aglow with demonic possession. But whereas Regan, the kid in “The Exorcist,” warranted a visit from a priest, these animals get a dude named Jackson Galaxy.
He tries to do for bad cats and their owners what Cesar Millan does for bad dogs and theirs on “Dog Whisperer”: psychoanalyze the situation and the animal, educate the pet owners, recommend some interventions. And he’s surprisingly watchable: genial, knowledgeable, full of information that might be of use even to cat owners whose animals are not possessed.
Mr. Galaxy — yes, it feels ridiculous writing that — looks like a Hells Angel, but his love and respect for cats seems genuine, and his advice appears actually to help the clients, most of whom are couples whose crazed pets are affecting their relationships. Some of these people are downright terrified of their cats.
“You pick her up like an explosive device and kind of hold it out here,” one owner in an early episode says of a cat named Fifi, trying to hold her far enough away from his body that she can’t scratch him.
Anyone not in the cat-owning club is likely to look at these situations and think: “What is wrong with you people? You’re being held hostage by a danged cat. Get rid of it.” But Mr. Galaxy’s philosophy seems to be that there is no cat-human relationship so messed up that it’s not worth trying to fix.
And he puts the onus squarely on the humans. By the time he’s through, they may have changed the furniture in their house, filled their best living spaces with cat-climbing towers, built catios and generally subjugated themselves to the problem cat. One young man starts out adamantly proclaiming that he is not a cat person but ends up taking his fiancée’s cat for walks with a leash. Advocates of the macho brand of maleness will be hooting at this fellow’s emasculation. The cat, though, seems pretty pleased with itself: another human properly trained.
MY CAT FROM HELL
Animal Planet, Saturday nights at 9, Eastern and Pacific times; 8, Central time.
Produced for Animal Planet by 3 Ball Productions. For Animal Planet: Melinda Toporoff, executive producer. For 3 Ball: J D Roth, Todd Nelson and Adam Greener, executive producers; Mark Herwick, co-executive producer.
The list of cat misbehaviors — scratching, biting, yowling, spraying, furniture wrecking, drapery shredding, hairball disgorging — is so long that it’s amazing that the animals can find time to get the 20 hours of sleep they seem to need per day. Most cats, though, know how to balance their evil tendencies with general adorableness, so that their owners are too busy reaching for the video camera to notice the claw marks on their upholstery and the blood on their arms.
That’s most cats. But the beasts in “My Cat From Hell,” a series that begins on Saturday on Animal Planet, are an entirely different story. These cats are the Regan MacNeils of the feline world: hissing, clawing, cursing, eyes aglow with demonic possession. But whereas Regan, the kid in “The Exorcist,” warranted a visit from a priest, these animals get a dude named Jackson Galaxy.
He tries to do for bad cats and their owners what Cesar Millan does for bad dogs and theirs on “Dog Whisperer”: psychoanalyze the situation and the animal, educate the pet owners, recommend some interventions. And he’s surprisingly watchable: genial, knowledgeable, full of information that might be of use even to cat owners whose animals are not possessed.
Mr. Galaxy — yes, it feels ridiculous writing that — looks like a Hells Angel, but his love and respect for cats seems genuine, and his advice appears actually to help the clients, most of whom are couples whose crazed pets are affecting their relationships. Some of these people are downright terrified of their cats.
“You pick her up like an explosive device and kind of hold it out here,” one owner in an early episode says of a cat named Fifi, trying to hold her far enough away from his body that she can’t scratch him.
Anyone not in the cat-owning club is likely to look at these situations and think: “What is wrong with you people? You’re being held hostage by a danged cat. Get rid of it.” But Mr. Galaxy’s philosophy seems to be that there is no cat-human relationship so messed up that it’s not worth trying to fix.
And he puts the onus squarely on the humans. By the time he’s through, they may have changed the furniture in their house, filled their best living spaces with cat-climbing towers, built catios and generally subjugated themselves to the problem cat. One young man starts out adamantly proclaiming that he is not a cat person but ends up taking his fiancée’s cat for walks with a leash. Advocates of the macho brand of maleness will be hooting at this fellow’s emasculation. The cat, though, seems pretty pleased with itself: another human properly trained.
MY CAT FROM HELL
Animal Planet, Saturday nights at 9, Eastern and Pacific times; 8, Central time.
Produced for Animal Planet by 3 Ball Productions. For Animal Planet: Melinda Toporoff, executive producer. For 3 Ball: J D Roth, Todd Nelson and Adam Greener, executive producers; Mark Herwick, co-executive producer.
Homemade Canine Pancreatitis Diet
There are a lot of do's and don'ts that you need to learn when it comes to preparing homemade canine pancreatitis diet food. Read the following article and find out more about it.
Painful inflammation of pancreas is termed as pancreatitis, which is a result of excessive consumption of high fat diet. This is also a common medical condition in pet dogs. In canine pancreatitis, pancreas becomes inflamed and lead to production of various digestive enzymes. These digestive enzymes include secretin, gastrin, cholecystokinin, etc. Various fatty acids and amino acids that are present in the foods consumed are responsible for stimulating the production of these digestive enzymes. When these enzymes are activated within the pancreas, it leads to the digestion of the body tissues and decrease in the pancreatic health. Canine pancreatitis is ranged from mild to severe with two main types, namely - acute pancreatitis and chronic pancreatitis.
Apart from the high fat foods, there are various other reasons like age, obesity, trauma, infectious diseases, low immunity and high blood fat content can cause canine pancreatitis. This condition is characterized by indigestion symptoms like loss of appetite, vomiting, along with other symptoms like apathy and aggressiveness. Sincecanine pancreatitis is related with digestive system, it is important to make changes in the food that is given to the pet. In such situation, preparing a homemade canine pancreatitis diet is said to be the ideal solution. In the following section of the article, we will try and find out more about ways to plan canine pancreatitis diet with a few easy and homemade dog food recipes.
Homemade Canine Pancreatitis Diet: Recipes for Canine Pancreatitis
Canine Pancreatitis Diet Plan
Before we move on to the section of pancreatitis recipes for dogs, it is important for you to understand a few basic things. When your pet dog is diagnosed with pancreatitis, you need to find low fat diet food for him. In severe condition, you need to feed him with food that has as low as only 18% of the recommended fat content for dogs. You need to prepare healthy dog food which is easy on the digestive system and provides ample amount of energy for the dog to sustain. You should add high amount of carbohydrates sources like rice, barley, oatmeal, boiled chicken, turkey, low fat cottage cheese, white chicken, lean meat sources like low fat beef, fatless yogurt and egg whites. As far as vegetables are concerned, you can add healthy vegetables like dark and leafy vegetables, sweet potato, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, pumpkin, etc. As you can see, you need to make dog food which is based on a low fat protein with relatively high fiber and carbohydrate rich products. You may come across a few dog diet foods that are low fat, high protein and high fiber dog foods in a store or a mall. However, the best way would be to provide your dog with home cooked healthy dog food.
Canine Pancreatitis Diet Recipes
You can prepare a few really easy homemade canine pancreatitis diet recipes, by using various healthy combinations of the above mentioned foods. However, it is always important to understand that you should not overfeed the dog. Make sure that you readjust the feeding times to 4-5 times a day. Also consult the veterinarian and include digestive enzymes or beneficial bacteria in the recipes. Veterinarian might suggest enzymes like l-glutamine, pancreatin and Berte’s Digestion Blend. While preparing the recipes, make it a point to cook the grains and meats thoroughly and chop or rather grind the vegetables and other ingredients so that your pet will not face further problems in digesting the food. Here are a few combinations that you may like to use:
Recipe # 1
- Chicken breast, 1 cup
- No fat, plain yogurt, ½ cup
- Cabbage, ¼ cup
- Zucchini, ½ cup
- Potato, ¾ cup
- Berte’s Digestion Blend, ½ tsp
Recipe # 2
- Lean roast, 1 cup
- Non-fat cottage cheese, ½ cup
- Zucchini, ¼ cup
- Broccoli, ½ cup
- Barley, ¾ cup
- Berte’s Digestion Blend, ½ tsp
Recipe # 3- Chicken, 1 cup
- White rice, 1 cup
- ½ cup cottage cheese
Recipe # 4- Chicken thigh, ½ pack
- Rice, 2 ½ cup
- Green beans, carrots, broccoli, ½ cup each
- Wheat germ, ½ cup
The homemade canine pancreatitis diet should be fed to dogs in a small amount throughout the day. Also, make sure that you are consulting the veterinarian on a regular basis both before and after staring on the diet. It will ensure quick recovery of your canine friend!
By Rutuja Jathar
Published: 4/27/2011
Train Your Dog Month: January 2011
(and Every Month)
The Association of Pet Dog Trainers believes it is long overdue to dedicate a month where we can bring awareness
to the importance of socialization and training, and most of all, to inform the public that training your dog can be
easy and fun! We selected January as the perfect month because so many dogs and puppies are adopted or
purchased from breeders and brought home during the winter holidays. Our desire is to help these new pet parents
start off the new year right with their newest family member.
to the importance of socialization and training, and most of all, to inform the public that training your dog can be
easy and fun! We selected January as the perfect month because so many dogs and puppies are adopted or
purchased from breeders and brought home during the winter holidays. Our desire is to help these new pet parents
start off the new year right with their newest family member.
The APDT is planning a variety of events in January 2011 to celebrate National Train Your Dog Month. We
want dog owners to see how simple and fun training can be, and how patience, consistency and a deeper
understanding of a dog’s behavior can lead to happier, healthier and harmonious households. It's our goal
to promote using training methods that are kind, gentle and have an emphasis on building a relationship
with your dog.
The APDT has over 5,000 members who are willing and able to assist dog owners who need help with their dogs. We want dog owners everywhere to
know that there are solutions to help dogs with behavior problems and there are alternatives to try before giving up your dog.
want dog owners to see how simple and fun training can be, and how patience, consistency and a deeper
understanding of a dog’s behavior can lead to happier, healthier and harmonious households. It's our goal
to promote using training methods that are kind, gentle and have an emphasis on building a relationship
with your dog.
The APDT has over 5,000 members who are willing and able to assist dog owners who need help with their dogs. We want dog owners everywhere to
know that there are solutions to help dogs with behavior problems and there are alternatives to try before giving up your dog.
10 reasons senior pets rule:
- When senior pets are adopted, they seem to understand that they've been rescued, and are all the more thankful for it.
- A senior pet's personality has already developed, so you'll know if he or she is a good fit for your family.
- You can teach an old dog (or cat or other pet) new tricks (I do every day with my own cats!): Senior pets have the attention span and impulse control that makes them easier to train than their youthful counterparts.
- A senior pet may very well already know basic commands anyway!
- In particular, senior pets are often already housetrained, or can be more easily housetrained than a young pet with a tiny bladder.
- A senior pet won't grow any larger, so you'll know exactly how much pet you're getting.
- Senior pets are often content to just relax in your company, unlike younger pets, who may get into mischief because they're bored.
- Speaking of relaxing, senior pets make great napping buddies.
- Senior pets know that chew toys (not shoes) are for chewing and scratching posts (not furniture) are for scratching.
- Senior pets are some of the hardest to find homes for -- so when you adopt a senior pet, you're truly saving a life.
From the DOG BEHAVIOR ANSWER BOOK, Arden Moore, p.156-58
In my view, the NOTHING IN LIFE IS FREE (NILIF) program offers the best payoff for most dogs & their owners. With NILIF, your dog complies with your commands & you do not need to bully or use physical force. The idea is that you bolster your leadership & cultivate your dog’s respect for you by controlling all his resources. Specifically, you determine when you put his food bowl down & when you pick it up, rather than responding to his begging or letting him guard his bowl. You set the time for playing with toys & when the game ends. you Initiate the grooming & petting sessions.
By controlling the resources, you elevate your status in the eyes of your dog. I particularly like this positive method of training because it works on a wide range of canine personalities, including shy, easily distracted, high energy, & pushy dogs. Shy dogs gain confidence; distracted dogs develop focus & patience; pushy dogs learn canine manners.
Here’s how NILIF works. Start by giving your dog the cold shoulder when he demands your attention. Ignore him if he paws your hand, barks at you, or brings a toy to get you to pet or play with him. Just act as if he is invisible. This is not meant to be rude or cruel. Rather, you are training your dog to understand that he cannot demand your attention any time he desires. The light bulb will turn on in his brain as he realizes that it is you, not he, who calls the shots in the household.
NOTE: Be prepared for an increase in unwanted behavior as you implement your new strategy. Your dog will try harder at first, since his tactics worked in the past. Do not give in!
All members of the family must participate in the new house rules. Let them know that form now on, your dog must earn his paycheck (praise, treats, playtime) with proper behavior. At mealtime, ask your dog to SIT & WAIT before you put the bowl down. When you want to play one of his favorite games, such as fetching a tennis ball, tell him to LIE DOWN before you toss the ball again.. When you are finished with the game, tell him GAME OVER, pick up the ball, & put it out of his reach. Do this calmly & walk away. The key to success is being consistent. Every time you want to toss your dog a small treat, have him do something - sit or do a trick - before you hand over the tasty morsel. When you approach the front door to walk him, make sure he knows that you always exit & enter doors before him....
The bottom line is that NILIF establishes a clear ranking in the household with you in the number one spot. It is done without meanness but rather as a simple fact of life. NILIF is the canine version of saying PLEASE. In time, your dog will come to view you as The Provider of All Things Wonderful & you will be amazed at how much he will come to appreciate this clarity & be more responsive to your cues.
By controlling the resources, you elevate your status in the eyes of your dog. I particularly like this positive method of training because it works on a wide range of canine personalities, including shy, easily distracted, high energy, & pushy dogs. Shy dogs gain confidence; distracted dogs develop focus & patience; pushy dogs learn canine manners.
Here’s how NILIF works. Start by giving your dog the cold shoulder when he demands your attention. Ignore him if he paws your hand, barks at you, or brings a toy to get you to pet or play with him. Just act as if he is invisible. This is not meant to be rude or cruel. Rather, you are training your dog to understand that he cannot demand your attention any time he desires. The light bulb will turn on in his brain as he realizes that it is you, not he, who calls the shots in the household.
NOTE: Be prepared for an increase in unwanted behavior as you implement your new strategy. Your dog will try harder at first, since his tactics worked in the past. Do not give in!
All members of the family must participate in the new house rules. Let them know that form now on, your dog must earn his paycheck (praise, treats, playtime) with proper behavior. At mealtime, ask your dog to SIT & WAIT before you put the bowl down. When you want to play one of his favorite games, such as fetching a tennis ball, tell him to LIE DOWN before you toss the ball again.. When you are finished with the game, tell him GAME OVER, pick up the ball, & put it out of his reach. Do this calmly & walk away. The key to success is being consistent. Every time you want to toss your dog a small treat, have him do something - sit or do a trick - before you hand over the tasty morsel. When you approach the front door to walk him, make sure he knows that you always exit & enter doors before him....
The bottom line is that NILIF establishes a clear ranking in the household with you in the number one spot. It is done without meanness but rather as a simple fact of life. NILIF is the canine version of saying PLEASE. In time, your dog will come to view you as The Provider of All Things Wonderful & you will be amazed at how much he will come to appreciate this clarity & be more responsive to your cues.
Dog greetings
Have you ever seen two friends or family members reunite? The emotional greeting usually involves hugs with happy, loud voices, pats on the back, and arms around one another. In some cases, there's even a spank on the bottom or noogie to the head.
Now, compare that type of greeting to a first time meet and new individual, whether at a party or office environment. In this situation, voices are controlled and body parts aren't flying haphazardly everywhere (or at least they shouldn't be). Composure, control, and structure frame greetings in more formal environments or amongst people unfamiliar with one another.
Looking at dog to dog interactions and behavior, the same rules hold true. The relationship a dog has with the other dog(s) he is greeting or playing with map the type of behavior a dog should or will offer.
During greetings, formalities are expected and appreciated. As mentioned in previous articles, a nice dog greeting is arc-like. The dogs go in at each other's side and sniff one another's tushies (I get to use that word a lot. How lucky am I?). This is polite dog-greeting behavior. It may look a little bit stiff or broken up as they first meet and are sniffing each other out. They are--and gauging the other's intentions and offering a lot of body language to help put one another at ease.
Arc-like tushie to nose greeting
There's usually very brief pauses and interruptions. Then one of the dogs might offer a "Let's get this party started" play gesture and the zoomies commence. Other times, after the formal tushie sniff, they are uninterested in play. They have sniffed each other out and go about their ways, maybe offer ashake-off as they walk apart.
Dogs who are a bit forward during early meetings can be corrected by their greeter with a snark, "Back off, I don't know you!" A more timid dog could also offer a flight response behind a leg: "Eek, I don't know you, slow down, give me some space."
Now, once dogs have gotten to know each other, the rules loosen up. It's just like us. Once they know the general temperament and what they can expect from the other, and have a solid understanding for another's overall intentions, the play and interactions become less guarded. They become more tolerant of one another and forgive each other for occasional slip-ups.
For dogs who know each other, you might see immediate wrestling type body contact. They might run blazing at one another before jetting off on a big run together. It's like the greeting I mentioned from our reunited friends and family above. They drop some formalities based on their history and friendship.
This video (is long) but a GREAT example of a budding relationship. Enjoy the awesome faux electronic keyboard Madonna ...And I FEEL!! [see links page]
Generally, just watch as the relationship blossoms. A formal greeting, then an escalation and rules are set: "NO MORE MOUNTING AND NECK OVERS!" It's a good example of why play shouldn't always be left up to just the two dogs. I would redirect these two as they are working to come to an understanding.
At the very early stages, notice all the choppy breaks in the greeting, the dogs almost appear "distracted," offering a lot of head turns and averted gazes. This is part of the dance. The merle (grey/black) offers an immediate play bow. He missteps though by putting his paws on the fawn's (lighter red) back and mounts too. The fawn quickly corrects him, the play pauses and they both offer head turns before commencing play.
In this play session, the merle is generally more assertive and pushy. Notice he does a lot of putting his neck over the back of the fawn, paws on the back, etc. The fawn is tolerant to begin. Throughout this video, the fawn works overtime. He is overwhelmed by the pushy merle at points and works hard to keep himself, and the merle calm and polite!
Notice how the play goes vertical or tends to leave the ground. This is intense behavior. When interactions turn to this, the dogs should be interrupted. Not by grabbing a collar, but by calling apart and engaging in other activities.
The play gets a bit amped up, a lot of mounting and a tumble, and then you see a shake off (2:30).
As the play progresses (about 2:50 mins in), the fawn has had enough of the mounting, paws on the back and neck over his back. He will remove himself from the play (he literally just walks away). He teaches the merle, "You want to play like that, find another!" He works actively to control the merle's play by doing this. Each time the merle starts the neck and paw business, the fawn briefly ends the play.
At four minutes, the dogs do another approach with head turns, "I'm still cool. What about you? Let's try this again!"
You see as this progresses, more fluid periods of play and full body contact develops. They are working through this. They are generally interested in interacting, but are both working to develop an understanding (the fawn looking to take it down several notches and removing himself!.
Who doesn't love watch loose-limbed Danes flop all over!? Enjoy!
[Apparently, my computer skills are not sufficient to get you to this video. However, you may find it on You Tube under "Big Dogs - Great Dane Dog Park action." It's all about play vs dangerous activity when dogs get together.]
Have you ever seen two friends or family members reunite? The emotional greeting usually involves hugs with happy, loud voices, pats on the back, and arms around one another. In some cases, there's even a spank on the bottom or noogie to the head.
Now, compare that type of greeting to a first time meet and new individual, whether at a party or office environment. In this situation, voices are controlled and body parts aren't flying haphazardly everywhere (or at least they shouldn't be). Composure, control, and structure frame greetings in more formal environments or amongst people unfamiliar with one another.
Looking at dog to dog interactions and behavior, the same rules hold true. The relationship a dog has with the other dog(s) he is greeting or playing with map the type of behavior a dog should or will offer.
During greetings, formalities are expected and appreciated. As mentioned in previous articles, a nice dog greeting is arc-like. The dogs go in at each other's side and sniff one another's tushies (I get to use that word a lot. How lucky am I?). This is polite dog-greeting behavior. It may look a little bit stiff or broken up as they first meet and are sniffing each other out. They are--and gauging the other's intentions and offering a lot of body language to help put one another at ease.
Arc-like tushie to nose greeting
There's usually very brief pauses and interruptions. Then one of the dogs might offer a "Let's get this party started" play gesture and the zoomies commence. Other times, after the formal tushie sniff, they are uninterested in play. They have sniffed each other out and go about their ways, maybe offer ashake-off as they walk apart.
Dogs who are a bit forward during early meetings can be corrected by their greeter with a snark, "Back off, I don't know you!" A more timid dog could also offer a flight response behind a leg: "Eek, I don't know you, slow down, give me some space."
Now, once dogs have gotten to know each other, the rules loosen up. It's just like us. Once they know the general temperament and what they can expect from the other, and have a solid understanding for another's overall intentions, the play and interactions become less guarded. They become more tolerant of one another and forgive each other for occasional slip-ups.
For dogs who know each other, you might see immediate wrestling type body contact. They might run blazing at one another before jetting off on a big run together. It's like the greeting I mentioned from our reunited friends and family above. They drop some formalities based on their history and friendship.
This video (is long) but a GREAT example of a budding relationship. Enjoy the awesome faux electronic keyboard Madonna ...And I FEEL!! [see links page]
Generally, just watch as the relationship blossoms. A formal greeting, then an escalation and rules are set: "NO MORE MOUNTING AND NECK OVERS!" It's a good example of why play shouldn't always be left up to just the two dogs. I would redirect these two as they are working to come to an understanding.
At the very early stages, notice all the choppy breaks in the greeting, the dogs almost appear "distracted," offering a lot of head turns and averted gazes. This is part of the dance. The merle (grey/black) offers an immediate play bow. He missteps though by putting his paws on the fawn's (lighter red) back and mounts too. The fawn quickly corrects him, the play pauses and they both offer head turns before commencing play.
In this play session, the merle is generally more assertive and pushy. Notice he does a lot of putting his neck over the back of the fawn, paws on the back, etc. The fawn is tolerant to begin. Throughout this video, the fawn works overtime. He is overwhelmed by the pushy merle at points and works hard to keep himself, and the merle calm and polite!
Notice how the play goes vertical or tends to leave the ground. This is intense behavior. When interactions turn to this, the dogs should be interrupted. Not by grabbing a collar, but by calling apart and engaging in other activities.
The play gets a bit amped up, a lot of mounting and a tumble, and then you see a shake off (2:30).
As the play progresses (about 2:50 mins in), the fawn has had enough of the mounting, paws on the back and neck over his back. He will remove himself from the play (he literally just walks away). He teaches the merle, "You want to play like that, find another!" He works actively to control the merle's play by doing this. Each time the merle starts the neck and paw business, the fawn briefly ends the play.
At four minutes, the dogs do another approach with head turns, "I'm still cool. What about you? Let's try this again!"
You see as this progresses, more fluid periods of play and full body contact develops. They are working through this. They are generally interested in interacting, but are both working to develop an understanding (the fawn looking to take it down several notches and removing himself!.
Who doesn't love watch loose-limbed Danes flop all over!? Enjoy!
[Apparently, my computer skills are not sufficient to get you to this video. However, you may find it on You Tube under "Big Dogs - Great Dane Dog Park action." It's all about play vs dangerous activity when dogs get together.]
Catio Showcase:
Tony Cenicola/The New York TimesRobert Davidson and Stefanie L. Russell fenced off half the balcony of their Greenwich Village apartment.
Oliver joins them.
Oliver joins them.
‘Catio’ Enclosures Protect Cats Outside
Steve Payne for The New York Times
Madelaine Ann Hare’s second-floor
porch in Toronto encloses three
Abyssinians, as does an attached
25-foot walkway.
Madelaine Ann Hare’s second-floor
porch in Toronto encloses three
Abyssinians, as does an attached
25-foot walkway.
By JENNIFER A. KINGSONPublished: June 16, 2010
WHEN it comes to their homes, there are few things New Yorkers prize as much as a little outdoor space — a terrace, perhaps, or a small deck in the backyard. Their cats feel the same way.
So some cat owners who would never dream of letting their pets roam free outside have come up with a creative compromise: an enclosed space — usually in the form of a screened-in porch or deck — that allows them to share the great outdoors.
Please don’t call it a cage. They prefer the term “catio.”
“The cats, they like to sit out there,” said Stefanie L. Russell, 44, referring to the balcony of her 12th-floor Greenwich Village apartment, where a homemade enclosure keeps her three Burmese cats safe. “Before, we basically didn’t use the balcony at all, because we were afraid that the cats would fall or jump.”
Two years ago, she and her husband, Robert Davidson, who are on the faculty of the N.Y.U. College of Dentistry, fenced off half the balcony, which runs the length of the apartment. They used industrial-grade PVC pipe and heavy black netting, creating a fully enclosed space that they decorated with furniture, plants and carpeting.
Now the couple and their 9-year-old daughter, Sophie, leave the terrace door open for Oliver, Lily and Jackson, who are, as Ms. Russell put it, “the type of cats that love to run out in the hallway.”
The cats seem happier, she said, and there has been an unexpected bonus: “Before, we used to have pigeons nesting on the balcony, and it was just a mess.” These days, the birds keep their distance.
Catios have made inroads in the suburbs, where they range from small, practical structures — like a box made of wood and chicken wire — to all-out fantasy cat playgrounds, replete with tunnels and scratching posts. But such enclosures remain a rarity in the city, where giving up even a square foot of real estate to a litter box can seem like a sacrifice.
Still, the forfeit felt worthwhile to Mary Sillman and Martin Stein, who set aside half their small deck in Park Slope for Buster, a 9-year-old gray cat adopted from a shelter who had been using the deck off their one-bedroom apartment as an escape hatch. “I did go and find him, but I had to climb over backyard fences and bother neighbors,” said Ms. Sillman, 55, a graphic artist.
Two years ago, Mr. Stein, who is an architect, built a catio the size of two phone booths that Buster can get to through a window. “It’s just been the greatest thing for him,” Ms. Sillman said. “He just loves looking into the gardens below and people’s backyards.”
Although the couple have less outdoor space for themselves, they do not mind, Ms. Sillman said. “It’s kind of like we’re sharing the deck.”
Another Park Slope resident, Rose-Marie Whitelaw, turned her entire 10-by-20-foot deck into a haven for her seven cats. Using pipes, chicken wire and deer fencing, she erected a seven-foot railing that the cats cannot climb, then spray-painted it black so it would be less obtrusive.
“I’m kind of handy with copper piping and a blowtorch,” said Ms. Whitelaw, 50.
She and her husband, Russell Piekarski, have an outdoor picnic table where they eat meals among the cats in nice weather. Sliding glass doors lead to a kitchen and home office, and the cats can usually go in and out all year round.
“When the snow is piled to here, Julius makes tunnels,” said Ms. Whitelaw, referring to her large orange tomcat.
These catios are the do-it-yourself variety, but several companies, most of them mom-and-pop, sell ready-made cat enclosures or build custom ones. A big name in the market is Kittywalk Systems, a nine-year-old business in Port Washington, N.Y., run by Jeff and Lise King. It sells modular cat enclosures — tubes and rooms — that can be used individually or fashioned into cat-size kingdoms, much like the Habitrail system for hamsters.
“People can be very creative,” said Mrs. King, who designed her first cat pen a decade ago for her daughter’s kitten. “You’re really only limited by your imagination and your pocketbook.”
She now sells enclosures in dozens of shapes and sizes, some with fanciful names like the Penthouse (with three tiers of hammocks) and the Ferris Wheel (it looks like one). Kittywalk also sells strollers for cats and dogs. And as a support-the-troops gesture, the Kings have sent cat enclosures to American military bases in Iraq and Afghanistan.
“The thing that gives me the most gratification is that cats like my products,” Mrs. King said.
Even indoors, a cat enclosure can be a boon, said Carole C. Wilbourn, a cat therapist in Manhattan who recommends them to clients struggling with what she calls “inter-cat hostility.”
‘Catios’ Bring Cats OutdoorsPublished: June 16, 2010(Page 2 of 2)
“I have cases where someone is introducing another cat, and they have a studio apartment,” Ms. Wilbourn said. “It’s kind of hard for them to put up a barrier” for the cats to get used to each other without fighting, she said. An enclosure keeps the cats separate — but within eye range — until they get along.
‘Catio’ Enclosures Protect Cats Outside
VETERINARIANS disagree over whether it is depressing for cats to spend their lives indoors. Some, like Drew Weigner, a cat specialist in Atlanta, believe that outdoor space offers cats emotional benefits. While it is safer for them to stay inside, “in an enclosed yard, they’re going to get more exercise,” Dr. Weigner said. “Plus, there’s the intellectual stimulation, quote-unquote.”
Dr. Weigner advises suburban cat owners to keep outdoor enclosures off the ground, to guard against fleas and other parasites. He pointed to the American Association of Feline Practitioners’ Web page onenvironmental enrichment, which recommends several types of fencing for suburban cats.
Arnold Plotnick, a veterinarian who owns the Manhattan Cat Specialists practice on the Upper West Side, agrees that stimulation is good, but does not think that cats need to go outside. “Cats are really fine being indoors their entire lives,” he said. “That’s why they’re the perfect New York City pet.” But he warns about high-rise syndrome, in which cats leap or fall out of unsecured windows.
For cat owners in the city, there are a few off-the-shelf options. On the low end of the market are collapsible, stand-alone enclosures that can be used on a terrace or deck (or indoors) and cost as little as $40. For people with small yards, there are room-size enclosures — typically with a few shelves where cats can sleep or look around — that can be bought or built for $125 to $500.
In suburbia, where space isn’t a problem, catios tend to be more elaborate. “We have some clients that decorate the inside as if it’s just another room — a picnic table, cat grass — so they can hang out there with their cats,” said Kris Kischer, founder of Habitat Haven in Toronto, which sells dog and cat enclosures.
She offers predesigned kits “that are sort of in the Ikea realm, very easy to put together,” and does custom installations. “Some clients fax in exactly what they want, other clients send us photos and then give us a call,” Ms. Kischer said. “Then we can talk about measurements and we can design what they need for their space.”
Among her customers are Madelaine Ann Hare and her spouse, Patti Holloway, who live in a six-bedroom house in Toronto with three Abyssinian cats. Ms. Kischer turned their second-floor porch into a cat enclosure, then built a 25-foot walkway that extends to a large oak tree and encircles it. The structure is about 20 feet off the ground.
The cats are “in and out of there all day and night,” said Ms. Hare, 59, a retired lawyer. “We leave it open March through October, and the cats are perfectly safe there. Nothing can get to them.”
The cats — Jasper, Quincy and Nelson — are well known to the neighborhood squirrels, Ms. Hare said. “They calculatedly come and look for the cats and wait for them,” she said. “The squirrels will circle the tree, and the cats will chase after them, then the squirrels will turn around and chatter at the cats.”
Ms. Hare’s tree fort may sound elaborate, but it is modest in comparison with what Kara and Dean McCormick built at their home near Port Jefferson, N.Y. The couple, who have four cats, were engaged on April 15, 2005 (a nod to Mrs. McCormick’s profession as a tax accountant) and began planning their dream catio the next day.
Using products from Ms. Kischer and instructions from a Web site called Just4Cats.com, the McCormicks erected two large outdoor pens connected by a 44-foot tunnel. The front enclosure — 10 feet square and 7 feet high — abuts the house and has a cedar floor and shelves where the cats can lounge.
From there, the long tunnel, which is about seven feet off the ground, leads to a larger enclosure with a bench where the McCormicks like to sit. The cats go out in all weather, Mrs. McCormick said, especially when she starts running the vacuum.
“We wanted our pets to go out safely and not annoy the neighbors,” she said. “We wanted them to enjoy the wildlife, the songbirds, get fresh air and get some exercise.” The couple is now planning home renovations, which will include adding a second floor and — yes — expanding the cat enclosure.
Kate Benjamin, who runs the style blog ModernCat.net, sees catios as part of what she calls the modern pet movement, which holds that people shouldn’t have to sacrifice taste or comfort to live with pets.
On her Web site, Catioshowcase.com, she collects images of well-designed cat enclosures, and on her blog, she showcases hip-looking cat beds and litter boxes.
“I look for well-designed products for living with cats, other than some ugly carpet-covered scratchers,” said Ms. Benjamin, 39, who lives in Phoenix and has seven cats. Her own catio has shelves for climbing, a built-in litter box and a floor-to-ceiling scratching post.
She is passionate about her vision for pet products.
“I want to see the whole market expand so that people can really enjoy having pets and not have things that bother them,” Ms. Benjamin said. “It’s really about a lot more than design and aesthetic — it’s about taking away any reason that people would abandon a pet.”
What You Need to Build a 'Catio'
Cat owners who want to create a safe outdoor space for their cats have several options.
• Do-It-Yourself: equipment like PVC piping, heavy mesh nets and chicken wire is available at Home Depot and other supply stores. Various Web sites offer photos, construction tips and other pointers.
• A Web site called just4cats.com sells a book with detailed drawings and instructions on building a cat enclosure, for $25 plus $5 shipping. The site also has an attractive gallery of its customers’ installations.
• Kittywalk Systems (kittywalksystems.com) sells modular cat enclosures that can be used individually or combined into elaborate cat playgrounds (think of them as Habitrail for cats). Among the freestanding models are a 6-foot-tall teepee ($399.95) that can be set up on a balcony or deck and a 5-foot-tall“penthouse” with enough hammocks for three cats ($179.95).
• Habitat Haven (habitathaven.com) is a Canadian company that sells predesigned do-it-yourself cat enclosure kits. It also offers supplies and advice on making custom enclosures.
• SafeKitty (safekitty.com) is a mom-and-pop company in Buxton, Me., that sells off-the-shelf and custom-made enclosures, starting at $449 for a standard 6-by-6-by-6-foot box. The pieces are made with white cedar from the Maine woods.
• Petco (petco.com) sells a stand-alone outdoor enclosure called the ABO Gear Happy Habitat Cat Tent. It is 3 feet high, 74 inches long and 63 inches wide, and costs $41.97 when ordered online.
• Doctors Foster and Smith (drsfostersmith.com), a pet supply company, sells a no-frills 5-foot collapsible tube called the Fun Run Outdoor Cat Enclosure for $39.99.
See "links" page for link to article.
WHEN it comes to their homes, there are few things New Yorkers prize as much as a little outdoor space — a terrace, perhaps, or a small deck in the backyard. Their cats feel the same way.
So some cat owners who would never dream of letting their pets roam free outside have come up with a creative compromise: an enclosed space — usually in the form of a screened-in porch or deck — that allows them to share the great outdoors.
Please don’t call it a cage. They prefer the term “catio.”
“The cats, they like to sit out there,” said Stefanie L. Russell, 44, referring to the balcony of her 12th-floor Greenwich Village apartment, where a homemade enclosure keeps her three Burmese cats safe. “Before, we basically didn’t use the balcony at all, because we were afraid that the cats would fall or jump.”
Two years ago, she and her husband, Robert Davidson, who are on the faculty of the N.Y.U. College of Dentistry, fenced off half the balcony, which runs the length of the apartment. They used industrial-grade PVC pipe and heavy black netting, creating a fully enclosed space that they decorated with furniture, plants and carpeting.
Now the couple and their 9-year-old daughter, Sophie, leave the terrace door open for Oliver, Lily and Jackson, who are, as Ms. Russell put it, “the type of cats that love to run out in the hallway.”
The cats seem happier, she said, and there has been an unexpected bonus: “Before, we used to have pigeons nesting on the balcony, and it was just a mess.” These days, the birds keep their distance.
Catios have made inroads in the suburbs, where they range from small, practical structures — like a box made of wood and chicken wire — to all-out fantasy cat playgrounds, replete with tunnels and scratching posts. But such enclosures remain a rarity in the city, where giving up even a square foot of real estate to a litter box can seem like a sacrifice.
Still, the forfeit felt worthwhile to Mary Sillman and Martin Stein, who set aside half their small deck in Park Slope for Buster, a 9-year-old gray cat adopted from a shelter who had been using the deck off their one-bedroom apartment as an escape hatch. “I did go and find him, but I had to climb over backyard fences and bother neighbors,” said Ms. Sillman, 55, a graphic artist.
Two years ago, Mr. Stein, who is an architect, built a catio the size of two phone booths that Buster can get to through a window. “It’s just been the greatest thing for him,” Ms. Sillman said. “He just loves looking into the gardens below and people’s backyards.”
Although the couple have less outdoor space for themselves, they do not mind, Ms. Sillman said. “It’s kind of like we’re sharing the deck.”
Another Park Slope resident, Rose-Marie Whitelaw, turned her entire 10-by-20-foot deck into a haven for her seven cats. Using pipes, chicken wire and deer fencing, she erected a seven-foot railing that the cats cannot climb, then spray-painted it black so it would be less obtrusive.
“I’m kind of handy with copper piping and a blowtorch,” said Ms. Whitelaw, 50.
She and her husband, Russell Piekarski, have an outdoor picnic table where they eat meals among the cats in nice weather. Sliding glass doors lead to a kitchen and home office, and the cats can usually go in and out all year round.
“When the snow is piled to here, Julius makes tunnels,” said Ms. Whitelaw, referring to her large orange tomcat.
These catios are the do-it-yourself variety, but several companies, most of them mom-and-pop, sell ready-made cat enclosures or build custom ones. A big name in the market is Kittywalk Systems, a nine-year-old business in Port Washington, N.Y., run by Jeff and Lise King. It sells modular cat enclosures — tubes and rooms — that can be used individually or fashioned into cat-size kingdoms, much like the Habitrail system for hamsters.
“People can be very creative,” said Mrs. King, who designed her first cat pen a decade ago for her daughter’s kitten. “You’re really only limited by your imagination and your pocketbook.”
She now sells enclosures in dozens of shapes and sizes, some with fanciful names like the Penthouse (with three tiers of hammocks) and the Ferris Wheel (it looks like one). Kittywalk also sells strollers for cats and dogs. And as a support-the-troops gesture, the Kings have sent cat enclosures to American military bases in Iraq and Afghanistan.
“The thing that gives me the most gratification is that cats like my products,” Mrs. King said.
Even indoors, a cat enclosure can be a boon, said Carole C. Wilbourn, a cat therapist in Manhattan who recommends them to clients struggling with what she calls “inter-cat hostility.”
‘Catios’ Bring Cats OutdoorsPublished: June 16, 2010(Page 2 of 2)
“I have cases where someone is introducing another cat, and they have a studio apartment,” Ms. Wilbourn said. “It’s kind of hard for them to put up a barrier” for the cats to get used to each other without fighting, she said. An enclosure keeps the cats separate — but within eye range — until they get along.
‘Catio’ Enclosures Protect Cats Outside
VETERINARIANS disagree over whether it is depressing for cats to spend their lives indoors. Some, like Drew Weigner, a cat specialist in Atlanta, believe that outdoor space offers cats emotional benefits. While it is safer for them to stay inside, “in an enclosed yard, they’re going to get more exercise,” Dr. Weigner said. “Plus, there’s the intellectual stimulation, quote-unquote.”
Dr. Weigner advises suburban cat owners to keep outdoor enclosures off the ground, to guard against fleas and other parasites. He pointed to the American Association of Feline Practitioners’ Web page onenvironmental enrichment, which recommends several types of fencing for suburban cats.
Arnold Plotnick, a veterinarian who owns the Manhattan Cat Specialists practice on the Upper West Side, agrees that stimulation is good, but does not think that cats need to go outside. “Cats are really fine being indoors their entire lives,” he said. “That’s why they’re the perfect New York City pet.” But he warns about high-rise syndrome, in which cats leap or fall out of unsecured windows.
For cat owners in the city, there are a few off-the-shelf options. On the low end of the market are collapsible, stand-alone enclosures that can be used on a terrace or deck (or indoors) and cost as little as $40. For people with small yards, there are room-size enclosures — typically with a few shelves where cats can sleep or look around — that can be bought or built for $125 to $500.
In suburbia, where space isn’t a problem, catios tend to be more elaborate. “We have some clients that decorate the inside as if it’s just another room — a picnic table, cat grass — so they can hang out there with their cats,” said Kris Kischer, founder of Habitat Haven in Toronto, which sells dog and cat enclosures.
She offers predesigned kits “that are sort of in the Ikea realm, very easy to put together,” and does custom installations. “Some clients fax in exactly what they want, other clients send us photos and then give us a call,” Ms. Kischer said. “Then we can talk about measurements and we can design what they need for their space.”
Among her customers are Madelaine Ann Hare and her spouse, Patti Holloway, who live in a six-bedroom house in Toronto with three Abyssinian cats. Ms. Kischer turned their second-floor porch into a cat enclosure, then built a 25-foot walkway that extends to a large oak tree and encircles it. The structure is about 20 feet off the ground.
The cats are “in and out of there all day and night,” said Ms. Hare, 59, a retired lawyer. “We leave it open March through October, and the cats are perfectly safe there. Nothing can get to them.”
The cats — Jasper, Quincy and Nelson — are well known to the neighborhood squirrels, Ms. Hare said. “They calculatedly come and look for the cats and wait for them,” she said. “The squirrels will circle the tree, and the cats will chase after them, then the squirrels will turn around and chatter at the cats.”
Ms. Hare’s tree fort may sound elaborate, but it is modest in comparison with what Kara and Dean McCormick built at their home near Port Jefferson, N.Y. The couple, who have four cats, were engaged on April 15, 2005 (a nod to Mrs. McCormick’s profession as a tax accountant) and began planning their dream catio the next day.
Using products from Ms. Kischer and instructions from a Web site called Just4Cats.com, the McCormicks erected two large outdoor pens connected by a 44-foot tunnel. The front enclosure — 10 feet square and 7 feet high — abuts the house and has a cedar floor and shelves where the cats can lounge.
From there, the long tunnel, which is about seven feet off the ground, leads to a larger enclosure with a bench where the McCormicks like to sit. The cats go out in all weather, Mrs. McCormick said, especially when she starts running the vacuum.
“We wanted our pets to go out safely and not annoy the neighbors,” she said. “We wanted them to enjoy the wildlife, the songbirds, get fresh air and get some exercise.” The couple is now planning home renovations, which will include adding a second floor and — yes — expanding the cat enclosure.
Kate Benjamin, who runs the style blog ModernCat.net, sees catios as part of what she calls the modern pet movement, which holds that people shouldn’t have to sacrifice taste or comfort to live with pets.
On her Web site, Catioshowcase.com, she collects images of well-designed cat enclosures, and on her blog, she showcases hip-looking cat beds and litter boxes.
“I look for well-designed products for living with cats, other than some ugly carpet-covered scratchers,” said Ms. Benjamin, 39, who lives in Phoenix and has seven cats. Her own catio has shelves for climbing, a built-in litter box and a floor-to-ceiling scratching post.
She is passionate about her vision for pet products.
“I want to see the whole market expand so that people can really enjoy having pets and not have things that bother them,” Ms. Benjamin said. “It’s really about a lot more than design and aesthetic — it’s about taking away any reason that people would abandon a pet.”
What You Need to Build a 'Catio'
Cat owners who want to create a safe outdoor space for their cats have several options.
• Do-It-Yourself: equipment like PVC piping, heavy mesh nets and chicken wire is available at Home Depot and other supply stores. Various Web sites offer photos, construction tips and other pointers.
• A Web site called just4cats.com sells a book with detailed drawings and instructions on building a cat enclosure, for $25 plus $5 shipping. The site also has an attractive gallery of its customers’ installations.
• Kittywalk Systems (kittywalksystems.com) sells modular cat enclosures that can be used individually or combined into elaborate cat playgrounds (think of them as Habitrail for cats). Among the freestanding models are a 6-foot-tall teepee ($399.95) that can be set up on a balcony or deck and a 5-foot-tall“penthouse” with enough hammocks for three cats ($179.95).
• Habitat Haven (habitathaven.com) is a Canadian company that sells predesigned do-it-yourself cat enclosure kits. It also offers supplies and advice on making custom enclosures.
• SafeKitty (safekitty.com) is a mom-and-pop company in Buxton, Me., that sells off-the-shelf and custom-made enclosures, starting at $449 for a standard 6-by-6-by-6-foot box. The pieces are made with white cedar from the Maine woods.
• Petco (petco.com) sells a stand-alone outdoor enclosure called the ABO Gear Happy Habitat Cat Tent. It is 3 feet high, 74 inches long and 63 inches wide, and costs $41.97 when ordered online.
• Doctors Foster and Smith (drsfostersmith.com), a pet supply company, sells a no-frills 5-foot collapsible tube called the Fun Run Outdoor Cat Enclosure for $39.99.
See "links" page for link to article.
The Catio I Cobbled Together
I am no engineer, as one will see, but the kitties don't seem to care ='.'=
  |
  I am open to critiques, esp on the stair area... It's kind of hinky. |
Understanding the Bark
from Dog Geekz.com
Whether you have brought home a new puppy or adopted a grown dog from a rescue shelter, it's likely that your dog will develop or has already developed at least one bad habit. One of the most annoying and yet perfectly natural bad behaviors a dog can develop is barking. This is perfectly normal for a dog to pickup bad manners or unwanted behavior from time to time the key is to address the problem before it gets out of hand.
Barking is one of the most common dog annoyances that people complain about. Whether it's your neighbors, family or even you complaining about your dog barking, the need to solve the unwanted and constant annoyance quickly becomes a top priority.
The first step in in solving this bad habit is to determine what type of barker your dog is. Yes, there are different types of barks. It's a good idea to start monitoring your dog for a few days and really pay attention to what's going on when they are barking. Look for the following:
1. [At] What are they barking? A person, a noise, another dog?
2. When did they stop barking? When the person moved, left, or talked to them?
3. Did they bark for a long period or was it short lived?
4. Was your dog happy and wagging their tail?
5. Was your dog fearful with their hair standing on end?
6. Was your dog angry, aggressive, and biting?
Use these identifiers to help you identify what is setting your dog's barking off. Determining what is causing the barking will help guide you to figuring out how to deal with it.
There are five main types of barking:
1. Demand Barking
2. Lonely & Boredom Barking
3. Safety and Protection and Anxiety Barking
4. Warning and Security Barking
5. Anticipation Barking
Demand barking is just as it's name describes, it's a demand being made by your dog, generally directed at you. Unfortunately, we as pet parents often reinforce the bad behavior of demand barking by reacting to it. For example, when your dog is outside and begins to stand at the patio door and you jump right up and let them in, then you have just reinforced this barking behavior and the next time they will probably longer and louder to achieve the same results. The whole point of this bark is that your dog now believes he has gained control over you.
Lonely & boredom barking is brought on by just what it says, loneliness and boredom. You often see it in dogs that are left alone all day while they pet parents are at work. It's important that every dog gets enough stimulation and activity each day to avoid this situation or it can lead to even more bad habits like chewing up the furniture or digging giant holes in the yard. It's important to exercise your dog everyday and make sure they have sufficient stimulation such as chew bones and lots of toys to entertain themselves while you are away.
Safety and protection and anxiety barking is a dog's way of warding of potential threats and keeping them at a safe distance. This type of barking can go on for ten, twenty even thirty minutes. It can be accompanied by high levels of anxiety, shaking and pacing. Attempts at calming your dog will likely fail and may only serve to enhance your dog's barking and anxiety. Instead, work on what it is that your dog is afraid of and try to introduce them to it a little at a time. Use distractions when introducing them to a new situation such as toys or food. Never force your dog into a situation, instead be patient and they will eventually come around.
Warning and security barking is a dog's bark that is generally used in a pack situation to warn their other pack members of an impending danger. However, as dog's have integrated into human's culture, they often use this bark to warn their families of potential security risk such as unwelcome visitors. This bark is generally not troublesome and usually only last as long as the dog feels there is a risk but can become a problem for a dog that is not properly socialized.
Anticipation barking is easily recognized as the high pitched, over excited, dancing and jumping around bark. You know the one, where your dog knows something really great is coming, something that they love, like going for a walk or getting a treat. They get so excited sometimes but do not yell at your dog or jerk on their chain as that will only serve to add to their excitability. To help keep your dog at a more even keel, always make sure that your dog is properly exercised and take the time to properly train them from the very beginning.
Dog barking is a bad habit that can absolutely be overcome with time and work. Remember not to add to the chaos by yelling loudly or jerking on their chain or losing your temper. Use distractions such as introducing a toy or chew bone. If something specific sets your dog's barking off, then interrupt your dog immediately when they start barking. It's also important to teach your dog basic training from the very beginning such as down, heel, stay, etc. Without these basic commands, it will be very difficult to work with your dog.
Use all of these techniques together and you will accomplish your goal of eliminating the bark that is disrupting the peace in your home. Remember patience, time and work are the key to conquering any bad habit.
Barking is one of the most common dog annoyances that people complain about. Whether it's your neighbors, family or even you complaining about your dog barking, the need to solve the unwanted and constant annoyance quickly becomes a top priority.
The first step in in solving this bad habit is to determine what type of barker your dog is. Yes, there are different types of barks. It's a good idea to start monitoring your dog for a few days and really pay attention to what's going on when they are barking. Look for the following:
1. [At] What are they barking? A person, a noise, another dog?
2. When did they stop barking? When the person moved, left, or talked to them?
3. Did they bark for a long period or was it short lived?
4. Was your dog happy and wagging their tail?
5. Was your dog fearful with their hair standing on end?
6. Was your dog angry, aggressive, and biting?
Use these identifiers to help you identify what is setting your dog's barking off. Determining what is causing the barking will help guide you to figuring out how to deal with it.
There are five main types of barking:
1. Demand Barking
2. Lonely & Boredom Barking
3. Safety and Protection and Anxiety Barking
4. Warning and Security Barking
5. Anticipation Barking
Demand barking is just as it's name describes, it's a demand being made by your dog, generally directed at you. Unfortunately, we as pet parents often reinforce the bad behavior of demand barking by reacting to it. For example, when your dog is outside and begins to stand at the patio door and you jump right up and let them in, then you have just reinforced this barking behavior and the next time they will probably longer and louder to achieve the same results. The whole point of this bark is that your dog now believes he has gained control over you.
Lonely & boredom barking is brought on by just what it says, loneliness and boredom. You often see it in dogs that are left alone all day while they pet parents are at work. It's important that every dog gets enough stimulation and activity each day to avoid this situation or it can lead to even more bad habits like chewing up the furniture or digging giant holes in the yard. It's important to exercise your dog everyday and make sure they have sufficient stimulation such as chew bones and lots of toys to entertain themselves while you are away.
Safety and protection and anxiety barking is a dog's way of warding of potential threats and keeping them at a safe distance. This type of barking can go on for ten, twenty even thirty minutes. It can be accompanied by high levels of anxiety, shaking and pacing. Attempts at calming your dog will likely fail and may only serve to enhance your dog's barking and anxiety. Instead, work on what it is that your dog is afraid of and try to introduce them to it a little at a time. Use distractions when introducing them to a new situation such as toys or food. Never force your dog into a situation, instead be patient and they will eventually come around.
Warning and security barking is a dog's bark that is generally used in a pack situation to warn their other pack members of an impending danger. However, as dog's have integrated into human's culture, they often use this bark to warn their families of potential security risk such as unwelcome visitors. This bark is generally not troublesome and usually only last as long as the dog feels there is a risk but can become a problem for a dog that is not properly socialized.
Anticipation barking is easily recognized as the high pitched, over excited, dancing and jumping around bark. You know the one, where your dog knows something really great is coming, something that they love, like going for a walk or getting a treat. They get so excited sometimes but do not yell at your dog or jerk on their chain as that will only serve to add to their excitability. To help keep your dog at a more even keel, always make sure that your dog is properly exercised and take the time to properly train them from the very beginning.
Dog barking is a bad habit that can absolutely be overcome with time and work. Remember not to add to the chaos by yelling loudly or jerking on their chain or losing your temper. Use distractions such as introducing a toy or chew bone. If something specific sets your dog's barking off, then interrupt your dog immediately when they start barking. It's also important to teach your dog basic training from the very beginning such as down, heel, stay, etc. Without these basic commands, it will be very difficult to work with your dog.
Use all of these techniques together and you will accomplish your goal of eliminating the bark that is disrupting the peace in your home. Remember patience, time and work are the key to conquering any bad habit.